SESK: Stuff Everyone Should Know · sesk.info/climb-auto-belay-how
What does an auto belay do when a climber lets go of the wall?
It lowers them to the ground at a controlled speed.
- It locks and leaves them hanging
- It lowers them at a controlled speed ✔
- It drops them to a crash pad
Why: An auto belay pulls in its lanyard as you climb. When you let go or slip, it controls your speed of descent so you are lowered gently. It does not stop you from coming off the wall.
Huh, didn't know that: The CWA says auto belays are personal protective equipment and gyms must orient climbers on them.
The auto belay is the most patient belayer. It never asks for a snack break.
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References
Answer: It lowers them at a controlled speed. An auto belay pulls in its lanyard as you climb. When you let go or slip, it controls your speed of descent so you are lowered gently. It does not stop you from coming off the wall.
- Climbing Wall Association: Auto Belay Position Paper www.cwapro.org/file/secure/auto-belay-position-paper---final-version.pdf
Auto belays do not prevent falls, but rather control the rate of descent
Checked 2026-10-12.
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