Which knot is the most common way to tie a climbing rope to a harness?

The figure 8 follow through.

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  1. The square knot
  2. The figure 8 follow through ✔
  3. The slip knot

Why: The figure 8 follow through is the standard tie-in knot because it is easy to teach, easy to learn and easy to check by eye, and it is strong and secure.

Huh, didn't know that: The AAC proposes it as the definitive tie-in knot for American climbing.

The dad joke
I tried to learn the figure eight, but I kept going in circles.
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References

Answer: The figure 8 follow through. The figure 8 follow through is the standard tie-in knot because it is easy to teach, easy to learn and easy to check by eye, and it is strong and secure.

  1. AAC Gold Standard Curriculum: Belaying americanalpineclub.org/news/2016/3/15/9ifwyakbvdf826by6gv97y1uzk1mzb
    it is the option that tends to dominate because it easy to teach, easy to learn, easily recognizable when tied correctly
    Checked 2026-10-12.

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