SESKStuff Everyone Should Know
SESK: Stuff Everyone Should Know · sesk.info/climb-close-the-system

If a rope might be too short to lower a climber to the ground, what should the belayer do with the free end?

Tie into it (or knot it) to close the system.

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  1. Let it lie loose on the ground
  2. Tie into it to close the system ✔
  3. Clip it to a quickdraw

Why: If the free end runs through the belay device, the climber is no longer held. Tying into the free end closes the system and prevents that end from passing through the device.

Huh, didn't know that: Routes with anchors above 30 meters, half a common 60 meter rope, may need a 70 meter rope to lower.

The dad joke
Belayers love closure. That's why they close the system.
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References

Answer: Tie into it to close the system. If the free end runs through the belay device, the climber is no longer held. Tying into the free end closes the system and prevents that end from passing through the device.

  1. AAC Know the Ropes: Lowering (Accidents in North American Climbing 2013) americanalpineclub.org/news/2023/6/21/lowering
    Better yet, the belayer can tie into the free end, thus closing the system.
    Checked 2026-10-12.
  2. AAC Know the Ropes: Lowering (Accidents in North American Climbing 2013) americanalpineclub.org/news/2023/6/21/lowering
    most of these unfortunate accidents could have been prevented simply by closing the system.
    Checked 2026-10-12.

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