SESK: Stuff Everyone Should Know · sesk.info/climb-backclipping
On lead, why is a "backclipped" quickdraw dangerous?
The rope can unclip itself when it runs over the gate.
- It makes the rope too stiff
- The rope can unclip itself from the carabiner ✔
- It doubles the rope stretch
Why: The rope should go into the carabiner from the rock side and come out toward the climber. Backclipped, the rope can run across the gate and pop out, leaving that bolt unclipped.
Huh, didn't know that: Look at each draw after you climb past it to make sure your moves didn't twist it into a bad spot.
I asked my quickdraw for directions. It said, "Go out the front door, not the back."
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References
Answer: The rope can unclip itself from the carabiner. The rope should go into the carabiner from the rock side and come out toward the climber. Backclipped, the rope can run across the gate and pop out, leaving that bolt unclipped.
- AAC: Protection, the ins and outs of sport and trad climbing protection americanalpineclub.org/news/2023/6/22/protection-the-ins-and-outs-of-sport-and-trad-climbing-protection
it can unclip itself from the carabiner when the rope runs over the gate during a leader fall.
Checked 2026-10-12.
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