SESKStuff Everyone Should Know
SESK: Stuff Everyone Should Know · sesk.info/climb-quickdraw-gates-away

Which way should quickdraw gates face when clipped to a bolt?

Away from the direction the climber will move.

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  1. Toward the climber's path
  2. Straight at the rock
  3. Away from the climber's path ✔

Why: Facing the gates away from where the leader will travel keeps the rope from rubbing or pressing on them. If the bolts are on a left wall, the gates face left.

Huh, didn't know that: The AAC also says to build quickdraws with both gates facing the same direction.

The dad joke
Quickdraw gates are shy. They always face away from the action.
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References

Answer: Away from the climber's path. Facing the gates away from where the leader will travel keeps the rope from rubbing or pressing on them. If the bolts are on a left wall, the gates face left.

  1. AAC: Protection, the ins and outs of sport and trad climbing protection americanalpineclub.org/news/2023/6/22/protection-the-ins-and-outs-of-sport-and-trad-climbing-protection
    the gates of the carabiners are oriented in the opposite direction from the leader’s anticipated direction of travel.
    Checked 2026-10-12.

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