SESKStuff Everyone Should Know
SESK: Stuff Everyone Should Know · sesk.info/climb-brake-hand-always-on

What is the first rule of belaying, no matter which device you use?

Keep a brake hand on the rope at all times.

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  1. Keep a brake hand on the rope at all times ✔
  2. Hold the rope with your fingertips
  3. Let go to clap for your climber

Why: The brake hand holds the rope on the braking side of the device. If it lets go and the climber falls, the rope is almost impossible to stop, so it never comes off.

Huh, didn't know that: This rule is older than belay devices. Sailors used it when lowering cargo on ships.

The dad joke
A good belayer is like a good friend. They never let go of you.
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References

Answer: Keep a brake hand on the rope at all times. The brake hand holds the rope on the braking side of the device. If it lets go and the climber falls, the rope is almost impossible to stop, so it never comes off.

  1. AAC Know the Ropes: Belaying (Accidents in North American Climbing 2016) americanalpineclub.org/news/2020/4/2/belaying
    There should be a brake hand on the rope at all times.
    Checked 2026-10-12.

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Test yourself in the game

Sports & FitnessWhen a belayer slides their brake hand along the rope, where should the rope be?Sports & FitnessWhen the belayer is ready and has checked everything, what do they answer?Sports & FitnessA climber calls "Slack!" About how much rope does the belayer give at first?

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