SESKStuff Everyone Should Know
SESK: Stuff Everyone Should Know · sesk.info/climb-slide-in-brake-position

When a belayer slides their brake hand along the rope, where should the rope be?

In the brake position, the spot with the most friction.

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  1. Straight up toward the climber
  2. In the brake position ✔
  3. Wrapped around the wrist

Why: Sliding the hand is the weakest moment in the belay cycle. With the rope held in the brake position, a fall can be caught right away.

Huh, didn't know that: The third principle says to use your hands and limbs in their natural, strong positions.

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Belayers know the secret to success: slide only when you're in the right position.
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References

Answer: In the brake position. Sliding the hand is the weakest moment in the belay cycle. With the rope held in the brake position, a fall can be caught right away.

  1. AAC Know the Ropes: Belaying (Accidents in North American Climbing 2016) americanalpineclub.org/news/2020/4/2/belaying
    Any time the brake hand slides along the rope, the rope should be in the brake position.
    Checked 2026-10-12.

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